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We run a full 3' O.D. Solid UHMW spacers. Rza as bobby digital digital bullet rar. Other kits run a 2' O.D. Hollow spacers. Going with a 3' Material covers more surface area, giving the body more support. The factory surface area is 3', so we like to keep the body supported as tightly as possible so that it doesn't move on the frame.
The spacers are drilled to the size of the stud adapter so that there is no excess play inbetween the stud adapter and the spacer itself. This ensures that once the body is securely fastened, the body is fully supported.
ON HIGHER GROUND Installing Calmini’s 2 Inch Suspension Kit For The Sidekick Editor: Eric Bewley Story/Photo: Corey Kychik TOPEKA, KS -The first time I took my 97 Tracker out wheeling, I was piloting my trusty Tracker over a breaking ledge and my cross member met up with the rocks in a most unfavorable fashion. It was then, I quickly realized more ground clearance was needed. After a short debate, some research, and previous experience, I decided on the Calmini 2″ lift kit. Here is a detailed write-up on how to install the Calmini 2″ lift. Lift the vehicle and support is with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack!
Remove the front tires. Remove the sway bar end links from the a-arms and swing the sway bar up and out of the way. I removed my sway bar completely. Place a floor jack under the a-arms and jack them up to preload the springs. Remove the 3 nuts and bolts holding the ball joints to the a-arms and save the hardware. Remove the brake lines from the struts and remove the calipers.
Hang the calipers off to the side. Support the spindles and remove the lower strut bolts. Save the hardware. Slowly lower the a-arms and remove the springs.
Remove the a-arms and save the hardware. Remove the center axle housing bushing. Cut the sleeve. I cut off about a quarter of an inch. Replace the lower bushing with the one supplied. Reinstall the center axle housing bushing and torque all the hardware. Remove the driver’s side axle support, reuse the hardware, and replace it with the one supplied.
Remove the passenger side axle support, reuse the hardware, and replace it with the one supplied. Open the hood and remove the nuts holding the struts to the body and remove the struts Remove the strut bushings. Knock the 3 studs out of the strut bushings and drill the holes out to 5/16 of an inch. Flip the strut bushings over and install on the new supplied struts.
If the writer ever protested they called him an anti-Semitic Jew. When the three of them deliberately lied to him, at Grossbart's instigation, the writer got even, by seeing to it that the young soldier's orders were changed so that he went to the Pacific with the rest instead of to N.J.
Tighten the large center nuts. Place the gold anodized “exhaust flange” on top of the strut bushing. Use the 3 supplied nuts and bolts to reinstall the struts and torque them to 7.5 Ft. Lbs Take the new tubular a-arms and grease the bushings with silicon grease.
Install them using the new supplied front nuts and bolts and the old rear nuts and bolts. Don’t tighten them yet.
Place a floor jack under the new a-arms, position the factory springs, and raise the floor jack while indexing the spring into the slot in the a-arm cup. Place the ball joints on top of the a-arms and tighten the 3 nuts and bolts. Reattach the spindle to the strut.
Reattach the calipers and hook the brake lines to the struts. With the a-arms still preloaded, torque the a-arm mounting bolts and nuts. Reinstall your wheels and tires and you are finished with the front! Now for the rear.
Jack the rear up by the pumpkin and support the frame with jack stands. NEVER work under a vehicle supported only by a jack! Remove the rear tires and wheels. Remove the rear shocks. Lower the axle and remove the rear springs. Remove the bump stops.
Install the bump stops on the new bump stop extensions I had to hold the bump stops inside the new springs, install the springs, and then tighten down the bump stops. Jack up the axle on the side with the new spring. This forced the other side down and made it easy to install the spring/bump stop combo. Put the jack back under the pumpkin and raise the rear axle. Make sure that the new rear springs are indexed and seated properly.
Install the new shocks. Install the tires and wheels. Your alignment will be off. I eyeballed mine and drove it for a few days to settle in the springs then had it professionally aligned. Final results and tips: Be prepared for rusted hardware! This Tracker had 5 bolts that were hard to remove.
I had to cut, drill, grind, and hammer the out. Remember to check all the hardware after the first 100 miles and/or after the first time you take it out wheeling. Front before Front after Rear before Rear after. Another great time.
It’s been 15 years now that we’ve been trekking to the central Oregon desert in mid-November to adventure, explore, and hang-out. Every year gives us a new opportunity to reconnect and enjoy each other’s company as we find new and exciting or fun to revisit points of interest in central Oregon and this year was no exception. From the magnificent Christmas Valley dunes, to the ancient rocks and caves near Cougar mountain, to over exuberant locals at the Waterin’ Hole Tavern in Ft. Rock, there was something for everyone this year.
FOR SALE OR TRADE Has the original 4 cyl has been rebuilt and bored out has forged rod and pistons camed ect. Dual transfer cases, Dana 44 front and rear posi rear end lockers up front super swamper 36s has about 50% tread but are retread able on board air via pto off of one transfer cases custom roll cage has setup for a cb radio but has been disconnected it’s a awesome rig to four wheel with has a 9,000 pound winch heat does work it is street legal. Will be buying a new soft top for it and repainting the undercarriage soon there has been a lot of money put into this I’m asking 7000 obo or trade for a ford or dodge truck reason for sale is I want to start my own business and need a work vehicle Call or text of Facebook message me I am out of the country but will be back in South Dakota in January.
High Quality 3' Suzuki Vitara/Escudo Lift Kit.Complete package to get that lift you need to fit the big wheels. You can easily run 31' Simex under your truck with this kit! (As per photo) Specifications: 1.
Fit Suzuki Vitara/Escudo 1989 - 1998 2. Genuine 3' Lift 3. Huge Increase in articulation 4. Increase size of wheels you can run What is included: 1. 3 inch Lift Springs - Front and Rear 2. Extreme Shocks - Front and Rear 3.
Front Axle Drop Brackets 4. Rear Axle Heim Joint Articulation Spacer Block 5. Transfer Case Drop Bracket for Vitara 1.6 6. 10mm Driveshaft Spacer 7.
Longer Replacement Lower Trailing Arms 8. Relocated Rear Shock Mounts.
Phase 1: Spring spacers for Front and Rear, Longer Rear Shocks, Spacers on Front Struts. So I picked up a set of the spring spacers off of ebay for my '91 Tracker. I think they were $90 shipped, including 2 inch spacers for the rear and 1.5 inch spacers for the front. I had to add a set of the strut spacers to get the reach for the the struts ( $35 pair from lowrange). I also replaced the struts (Monroe Sensa Tracks, $85 ea. At napa) and the shocks (Monroe Sensa Tracks for the 1991 Ford Crown Vic $30 ea. Also at napa).
Ans just for grins, I also replaced the worn black soft top with a brand new gray top (Best Top $280). Phase 2: Add 2 inch Body Lift, and new Wheels and Tires I installed a 2 inch body lift (about $120). Piece of cake. Just take your time and to one side, then the other. Had to reposition the fuel filler hose on both ends -easy.
Then had to bend the shifters using a torch. Took two tries to get it just right. The wheels are Cragar Soft 8 in 15x7 ($35 ea at Summit Racing) and the tires are the Pepboys Definity MTs in 30x9.5 -15. Before, the stock Tracker was just a mild mannered little grocery getter.
After, its a tuff little 4-wheeler with attitude! Hay, guys i got a 91 geo tracker automatic 4x4. And i have a 2 inch body lift, and a 1.5-2' coil spring spacers its all put in, but it just dosnt look like that did much, is there any other ways that i can lift even higher with out spending a lot of money? The only thing i can think of now is longer springs, i have seen a few kits around any one have good links? Also I have heard off of some other forums that if you get the newer 2000-2001 geo springs and put them in the older ones like mine 91' it will raise it about 3 inches any thoughts on that? And one last thing, a just have littel 27's, 7' wide.
Tracker Lift
And 2' wheel spacer, if i got bigger tires 'taller mainly' would that help out a lot, If so what size. But i don't want to big of tires cus i dont mud much yet.
Its mainly for college and good gas mileage, but if i have to sacrifice a little for gas fine by me. Thanks tons for any replys. The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities. Provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news.
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